Villa La Angostura Neuquén Province, Argentina — The Garden of Patagonia
Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura is northern Patagonia’s most exclusive alpine resort, a picturesque village of 11,000 nestled between Lago Nahuel Huapi and the Andes mountains. Often called “the garden of Patagonia” for its flower-filled streets and Swiss-chalet architecture, this upscale destination attracts Argentine elites and international travelers seeking refined mountain elegance. Unlike Bariloche’s commercial chocolate-shop tourism, La Angostura maintains sophisticated charm: boutique hotels, gourmet restaurants featuring Patagonian venison and wild mushrooms, artisan shops, and pristine natural surroundings. The town serves as gateway to Los Arrayanes National Park—the world’s only pure forest of arrayán (Chilean myrtle) trees—and sits at the southern terminus of the famous Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes) scenic route. Winter transforms the area with world-class skiing at Cerro Bayo. Summer brings hiking through ancient forests, mountain biking flowery trails, kayaking turquoise lakes, and fishing pristine rivers.
Why Visit
Explore the magical Arrayanes Forest — Los Arrayanes National Park protects the world’s only pure stand of Chilean myrtle (arrayán) trees. Their cinnamon-colored bark, twisted trunks, and forest cathedral atmosphere feel otherworldly—like stepping into a fairy tale.
Experience upscale Patagonian sophistication — Villa La Angostura offers Argentina’s most refined mountain resort: Michelin-quality restaurants, boutique shopping, luxury lodges, spa treatments—without sacrificing authenticity or natural beauty.
Bike or hike the Quetrihué Peninsula — The 12 km path to Arrayanes forest doubles as one of Patagonia’s most scenic bike rides: lakeside trail through native forest, beaches for swimming, mountain views, and the enchanted myrtle grove finale.
Ski Cerro Bayo’s tree runs — Intimate ski resort (1,050 hectares) famous for tree skiing through lenga forests, powder stashes, and stunning lake views. Less crowded than Bariloche’s Cerro Catedral, more charming.
Drive the Seven Lakes Route — Southern terminus of legendary Route 234: seven crystalline lakes connected by Patagonia’s most beautiful highway. Every turn reveals new turquoise waters framed by Andean peaks.
Taste wild Patagonian cuisine — Restaurants here showcase regional specialties: Patagonian lamb, wild boar, venison, foraged mushrooms, smoked trout, craft beers, Patagonian wines—elevated to fine dining standards.
Getting There
By Air: No direct airport. Fly to Bariloche (BRC) 80 km southeast (1.5 hours drive). Frequent flights from Buenos Aires (2 hrs), also Santiago, Mendoza, Córdoba. From Bariloche airport, take bus or rental car to Villa La Angostura.
By Bus: Well-connected. From Bariloche: Via Bariloche, Albus, others (hourly departures, $8-12 USD, 1.5 hrs, scenic Route 231). From San Martín de los Andes: 110 km north via Seven Lakes Route—Via Bariloche, Albus (multiple daily, $10-12, 2-2.5 hrs). From Buenos Aires: 18-20 hours overnight ($60-90), direct service with major companies. Note: Seven Lakes route (San Martín connection) closes May-November due to snow.
By Car: Ideal for exploring region. From Bariloche: Route 231 west (80 km, 1.5 hrs, paved, beautiful). From San Martín: Route 234/231 south via Seven Lakes (110 km, 2-2.5 hrs, spectacular). From Chile: Via Cardenal Samoré Pass from Osorno/Puerto Varas (summer, verify rental allows crossing). Rentals available in town but limited—better to rent in Bariloche.
Important: Town small and exclusive—book lodging 1-3 months ahead for peak seasons (January-February summer, July-August ski). Shoulder seasons easier. ATMs limited, bring cash. Prices higher than other Patagonian towns.
Top Experiences
Los Arrayanes National Park & Quetrihué Peninsula — The town’s crown jewel. The Forest: 12-hectare grove of pure arrayán (Chilean myrtle) trees—unique globally. Trees reach 25m tall, 300+ years old, with distinctive cinnamon-colored bark that’s cold to touch (high water content). Disney used this forest as inspiration for Bambi. Access Options:
- Bike: Most popular—12 km trail along peninsula, 1.5-2 hrs each way, easy/flat. Rent bikes in town ($15-20/half day). Start early to beat crowds. Trail hugs Lago Nahuel Huapi shoreline—stunning views throughout.
- Hike: Same 12 km trail, 2.5-3 hrs each way. Peaceful, allows photography stops.
- Boat: Catamaran from town pier (1 hour crossing, ~$25-30 round trip). Boat drops at forest, picks up later. Good for those unable to bike/hike.
- Combo: Bike one-way, boat return (or vice versa)—best of both. Arrange at tour office.
At Forest: Elevated boardwalk through grove (1.5 km loop, 30-45 min). Interpretive signs explain ecology. Park ranger station, small museum. Entry fee: ~$10 USD. Best time: Morning or late afternoon for soft light, fewer people. Tip: Stop at beaches along trail—Playa Mansa, Bahía Mansa—for swimming (brave souls—water 12-15°C even summer).
Cerro Bayo Skiing (Winter) — Boutique ski resort 9 km from town. Stats: 1,050 hectares, 28 runs, 1,050m base to 1,782m summit (700m vertical), 12 lifts. Terrain: 20% beginner, 40% intermediate, 40% advanced. Famous for tree skiing through lenga forests—powder stashes between trees on fresh days. Views: Spectacular—Nahuel Huapi lake, Andes peaks, even Chilean volcanoes on clear days. Season: Mid-June to early October (best July-August). Lift tickets: ~$50-70/day peak season. Rentals & lessons: Base area, English-speaking instructors. Character: Intimate, less crowded than Catedral. Families love it—safe, friendly. Advanced skiers appreciate challenging terrain without masses. Summer: Hiking trails open, chairlift rides for sightseeing (~$15).
Cerro Bayo Summer Hiking — Mountain offers excellent trails year-round. Confitería Lift & Trails: Take chairlift ($15 up, free down) to mid-mountain confitería (café). From there: Cumbre Trail (summit)—3 km, 2 hrs up, 360° views at 1,782m. Moderate-strenuous. Mirador Brazo Rincón—shorter trail to lake viewpoint. Alternative: Hike entire mountain from base—12 km round trip, 4-5 hrs, significant elevation (700m). Bring layers—summit often windy. Best December-March. Clear days essential for views.
Circuito Chico & Mirador Belvedere — Scenic 65 km loop drive from town. Highlights: Puerto Manzano village (lakeside, artisan shops), Mirador Belvedere (stunning panorama over Nahuel Huapi, two bays, Andean backdrop—must-stop for photos), Bahía Manzano (beach, restaurants), Hotel Correntoso (luxury hotel at Lago Correntoso outlet—stop for coffee/lunch with views), numerous viewpoints. Timing: Half-day (3-4 hrs with stops). Best: Morning light for photography. Bike option: Popular cycling route—steep sections but manageable. Bike rentals in town. Full day on bike.
Cascada Inacayal (Waterfall Hike) — Easy family-friendly hike to beautiful waterfall. Details: 3 km round trip (1.5 hrs), easy/flat. Trail follows river through forest to 20m cascade. Swimming holes near base (cold but refreshing summer). Interpretive signs on native flora. Trailhead: 4 km from town center—walkable, bikeable, or drive. Best time: December-February for full flow. Spring can be roaring. Combine: With picnic at nearby beaches.
Kayaking Lago Nahuel Huapi — Paddle Argentina’s largest and most scenic lake. Half-day trips: From Villa La Angostura bay exploring shoreline, hidden beaches, bahías. Water calm mornings. Full-day expeditions: Paddle to Isla Victoria (large island with trails, camping—9 km from town). Multi-day: Advanced paddlers can traverse sections, camping on islands/beaches. Rentals: Lakefront operators (~$30-40/day). Guided: Recommended for safety, local knowledge (~$80-100/day). Best time: December-February, morning paddles before wind. Water temp: 10-15°C even summer—dress appropriately.
Mountain Biking Trails — Extensive network developing. Quetrihué Peninsula: 12 km to Arrayanes—see above. Circuito Chico: 65 km loop with significant climbing—for fit cyclists. Cerro Bayo Bike Park: Summer, some ski trails convert to downhill mountain bike runs. Chairlift access. Urban trails: Network around town, easy scenic rides. Rentals: Multiple shops in town (~$20-30/day). Some offer e-bikes (~$40-50/day). Guided: Tours available combining trails (~$80-100/day).
Fly Fishing — Excellent waters nearby. Río Correntoso: Famous short river (300m!) connecting Lago Correntoso to Nahuel Huapi. Big rainbows and browns. Technical—wade carefully. Public access. Río Bonito: Freestone river, good dry fly water. Lago Nahuel Huapi: Troll for large fish—boat required. Season: November-April (best Feb-March). Licenses: Purchase at shops ($30-40/day foreigners). Guides: Several outfitters in town (~$400-500/day for 2 anglers). Flies: Attractors, nymphs, streamers depending on conditions.
Cerro Inacayal Trek — Challenging day hike with huge payoff. Stats: 16 km round trip, 8-10 hrs, 1,100m elevation gain to 1,923m summit. Trail: Begins near town, climbs steadily through forest, transitions to alpine, rocky summit scramble (non-technical). Views: 360° panorama—Nahuel Huapi, all seven lakes, volcanoes, Andes. On clear days, see Tronador, Lanín, Osorno. Difficulty: Strenuous—good fitness required. Season: December-March (snow-free). Navigation: Well-marked but bring map/GPS—weather can deteriorate. Pro tip: Start dawn for sunrise summit, avoid afternoon clouds.
Villa Traful & Lago Traful (Day Trip) — Scenic 60 km drive north to hidden gem village. Route: Spectacular—climbs mountains via Paso Córdoba (1,300m), descends to Traful valley. Viewpoints en route. Lago Traful: Deep blue lake in valley, tiny village (500 people). Activities: Hike to Mirador del Traful (panoramic viewpoint—1.5 hrs), kayak pristine lake, fish, underwater forest (submerged cypress forest visible by kayak/dive—unique). Timing: Full day from Villa La Angostura. Pack lunch or eat at simple restaurant. Best: Clear day for mountain views.
Wine & Dine Patagonian Cuisine — Villa La Angostura’s food scene exceptional. Signature dishes: Patagonian lamb, wild boar, venison, fresh trout, foraged mushrooms (morchella, níscalos), regional berries (calafate, rosa mosqueta). Top restaurants: Tinto Bistro (wild game, wine cellar), Waldhaus (Swiss-Argentine fusion), El Esquiador (casual, excellent lamb), Las Balsas (luxury hotel restaurant, tasting menus). Craft beer: Cervecería Bachmann (local brewery, taproom). Sweets: Artisan chocolates, berry preserves. Dining expensive by Argentine standards—budget $30-60 per person for dinner. Worth it for quality.
Horseback Riding — Ride through forests and mountains. Half-day: Forest trails with lake views (~$60-80). Full-day: To remote viewpoints, estancia visits, asado lunch (~$120-150). Multi-day: Pack trips into Nahuel Huapi backcountry—camping, exploring (arrange custom). Operators: Several estancias near town. No experience required for basic rides. Season: November-April.
Where to Stay
Luxury:
- Las Balsas Relais & Châteaux: Ultra-luxury lake-view rooms, gourmet restaurant, spa (~$400-700/night). Argentina’s finest.
- Correntoso Lake & River Hotel: Stunning location at Correntoso outlet, elegant, activities (~$300-500)
- Luma Casa de Montaña: Boutique B&B, cozy elegance, lakeside (~$250-400)
Mid-Range:
- Hostería Verena’s Haus: Bavarian-style, comfortable, good breakfast (~$120-180)
- Apart Hotel La Comarca: Apartments with kitchens, flexible (~$100-150)
- Sol Arrayán Hotel & Spa: Central, modern, spa facilities (~$150-220)
Budget:
- Hostel La Angostura: Social hostel, dorms and privates (dorms ~$20-25, privates ~$70-90)
- Hostel Cumbres Patagonicas: Budget-friendly, communal kitchen (~$18-30 dorms)
- Camping Unquehue: Municipal campground, basic facilities (~$12-18 per person)
Alternative:
- Puerto Manzano: Village 8 km away, slightly cheaper lodging, quieter
- Camping: National park has basic sites on Quetrihué Peninsula
Best Time to Visit
December-February (Summer Peak): Warmest weather (18-26°C days, 8-14°C nights), full daylight (6 AM-10 PM), all activities operational. Peak Argentine summer vacation—town busy but upscale atmosphere maintained (less chaotic than Bariloche). Arrayanes forest crowded mid-day—visit early morning. Hiking excellent, fishing good, water sports warm enough. January busiest (Argentine vacations). February slightly calmer, great fishing. Prices highest. Book 1-3 months ahead. Beautiful but expensive and populated.
March-April (Autumn): Shoulder season magic. Fewer tourists, autumn colors spectacular (lenga forests turn orange-gold), comfortable temps (12-20°C), stable weather. Fishing peaks—browns aggressive pre-spawn. Services mostly open through March. April sees closures begin, prices drop. March arguably best month—balanced weather, colors, availability, lower prices. Easter week exception (busy). By late April, ski season prep begins—transition period.
May-June (Pre-Winter): May quiet—most summer activities closed, too early for skiing. Town nearly empty, bargain prices, only die-hard nature lovers and locals. June ski season begins mid-month—early powder, thin crowds, discounted tickets. Gamble on snow coverage. Very cold (0-8°C). Cozy wood-fire atmosphere. Good for budget skiers willing to risk conditions.
July-August (Winter Peak): Prime ski season. Cerro Bayo full operation, excellent snow. Town transforms—bustling, expensive, upscale winter resort atmosphere. Must book lodging 2-3 months ahead. Cold (0-10°C days, below zero nights). Winter activities: skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, après-ski wine bars. Perfect for winter sports enthusiasts seeking quality over quantity (vs. Cerro Catedral’s crowds). Prices match summer peaks.
September-October (Spring Shoulder): Ski season ends early October. Snow melts valleys, remains peaks. October wildflowers begin, hiking opens. Weather unpredictable—sunny warm days alternating with cold snaps. Services gradually reopen. Fishing season opens November 1. Late October sees eager anglers arrive. Bargain prices, solitude. For flexible travelers comfortable with variable conditions. Beautiful if lucky with weather.
November (Spring Prime): Excellent shoulder month. All hiking accessible, fishing season open, weather improving (12-20°C). Wildflowers abundant along trails. Arrayanes forest less crowded. Services fully open, not busy. Good prices, availability. Disadvantage: occasional cold snaps, rain possible. Pack layers. Smart choice for budget-conscious seeking quality experience.
3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrayanes Forest Discovery
- Morning: Early bike rental (7-8 AM)
- Bike Quetrihué Peninsula to Arrayanes forest (2 hrs)
- Explore forest boardwalk (1 hr)
- Return bike ride, stop at beaches
- Afternoon: Town exploration, shops, relaxation
- Evening: Dinner at Tinto Bistro (wild game)
Day 2: Mountain Summit
- Early: Drive to Cerro Bayo (9 km)
- Take chairlift to mid-mountain
- Hike to summit (2-3 hrs)
- 360° views from 1,782m
- Descend, lunch at confitería
- Afternoon: Cascada Inacayal hike (easy recovery)
- Evening: Craft beer at Bachmann brewery
Day 3: Circuito Chico & Departure
- Morning: Circuito Chico scenic drive
- Stop: Mirador Belvedere (must-photograph)
- Lunch: Hotel Correntoso lakeside
- Afternoon: Puerto Manzano village
- Evening: Depart or overnight for next destination
5-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Orientation
- Arrive from Bariloche or San Martín
- Check into accommodation
- Afternoon: Town walking tour, gear rental
- Sunset walk along lake
- Dinner: Welcome meal at Waldhaus
- Plan week ahead
Day 2: Los Arrayanes Immersion
- Early bike to Arrayanes forest
- Explore at leisure—photography, nature observation
- Picnic lunch on peninsula beach
- Return bike ride slowly, enjoying scenery
- Afternoon: Town spa or wine tasting
- Evening: Casual dinner
Day 3: Cerro Bayo Adventure
- Full day mountain exploration
- Chairlift up, hike summit
- Explore multiple trails
- Lunch at confitería with views
- Afternoon: Additional hikes or relax at viewpoints
- Evening: Restaurant with lamb specialty
Day 4: Lago Traful Excursion
- Drive to Villa Traful (60 km, scenic)
- Hike Mirador del Traful (panoramic)
- Lunch in village (simple but fresh)
- Afternoon: Kayak Traful lake or underwater forest dive
- Return via sunset mountain views
- Evening: Light dinner after long day
Day 5: Choose Your Adventure & Depart
- Morning options:
- Fly fishing Río Correntoso with guide
- Mountain bike Circuito Chico
- Kayaking Nahuel Huapi
- Relaxed morning, shopping, spa
- Afternoon: Depart for Bariloche/San Martín or extend stay
7-Day Itinerary (Complete Experience)
Days 1-3: Follow 5-day itinerary above (arrival, Arrayanes, Cerro Bayo)
Day 4: Fly fishing full day—hire guide for Correntoso and nearby rivers, learn techniques, trophy browns/rainbows
Day 5: Villa Traful day trip—mirador hike, underwater forest, village exploration
Day 6: Cerro Inacayal summit trek (challenging)—full day, 16 km round trip, 1,100m gain, incredible views
Day 7: Circuito Chico scenic drive + Cascada Inacayal + relaxation OR Horseback riding estancia visit
Winter Variation (Ski Focus):
- Days 1-5: Skiing Cerro Bayo daily—mix groomers, tree runs, powder hunting
- Day 6: Snowshoeing or cross-country skiing in valleys
- Day 7: Final ski morning, afternoon departure or spa
Where to Go Next
1. Bariloche — Regional Capital Distance: 80 km southeast (1.5 hours)
Transport:
- Bus: Hourly departures Via Bariloche, Albus, others (~$8-12, 1.5 hrs, Route 231)
- Drive: Easy paved highway, scenic but less spectacular than Seven Lakes route
Why Go: Transition from exclusive boutique resort to bustling tourist city. Bariloche offers everything Villa La Angostura doesn’t: massive scale, shopping variety, nightlife, casino, chocolate-shop-lined main street (Mitre), bigger ski resort (Cerro Catedral), Circuito Chico (different from Angostura’s), extensive restaurant options, transportation hub (airport, buses everywhere), gear shops. Good for: resupply, variety after small-town pace, budget dining options, accessing different Nahuel Huapi sectors, flights out. Many combine both towns—Villa La Angostura’s elegance with Bariloche’s convenience and scale. Refugio Frey alpine lake hike is must-do. Budget 2-4 days.
Suggested Duration: 2-4 days depending on activities.
2. San Martín de los Andes — Northern Twin Distance: 110 km north (2-2.5 hours via Seven Lakes)
Transport:
- Bus: Multiple daily Via Bariloche, Albus (~$10-12, 2-2.5 hrs, summer only—road closes May-Nov snow)
- Drive: The famous Siete Lagos route—seven turquoise lakes, continuous viewpoints. One of South America’s most beautiful drives. Self-drive highly recommended.
Why Go: Continue (or begin) the legendary Seven Lakes scenic route. San Martín similar character to Villa La Angostura—upscale, sophisticated, mountain resort—but different setting and atmosphere. Highlights: Lanín National Park (araucaria forests, Lanín volcano), Lago Lácar (different lakes than Nahuel Huapi), world-class fly fishing (Chimehuin, Malleo rivers), Cerro Chapelco skiing (rival to Cerro Bayo), quieter than Angostura. Perfect pairing—both towns complement each other in single trip. Seven Lakes drive between them is half the experience. Budget full day for drive with stops, or overnight Villa Traful mid-route. From San Martín, can continue to Chile (Pucón) or return Buenos Aires. Budget 4-7 days for San Martín itself.
Suggested Duration: 4-7 days plus 1 day for Seven Lakes scenic drive.
3. El Bolsón — Hippie Mountain Town Distance: 130 km south (2-2.5 hours)
Transport:
- Bus: Daily service Via Bariloche, Don Otto (~$12-15, 2.5 hrs, Route 40)
- Drive: South on Route 40 through scenic valleys, Epuyén area
Why Go: Complete tonal shift from Villa La Angostura’s exclusivity to El Bolsón’s counter-culture vibe. Founded as hippie commune 1970s, retains bohemian character: artisan fairs (Feria Artesanal—massive craft market Tues/Thurs/Sat/Sun), organic farms, craft beer explosion (10+ breweries—Cervecería El Bolsón, Otto Tipp), yoga studios, alternative lifestyle. Microclimate valley grows fruits/hops impossible elsewhere in Patagonia. Excellent hiking: Cajón del Azul (turquoise river canyon—most popular), Refugio Hielo Azul (alpine hut), Cabeza del Indio rock formation. Budget-friendly after expensive Villa La Angostura—hostels, cheap eats, artisan ice cream. Climbing Cerro Piltriquitrón (2,284m). Gateway to Los Alerces National Park (ancient alerce trees). Refreshing authenticity, local culture, outdoor adventures without resort prices.
Suggested Duration: 2-4 days for town and day hikes; extend for refugio treks.
4. Chilean Lake District (Puerto Varas, Osorno, Pucón) Distance: 200-250 km west (4-5 hours via Cardenal Samoré Pass)
Transport:
- Bus: International buses Villa La Angostura → Osorno/Puerto Varas (daily, $25-35, 4-5 hrs via border). Also some direct to Pucón (summer).
- Drive: Via Paso Cardenal Samoré border crossing—straightforward. Verify rental allows crossing. Scenic route transitions Andes.
Why Go: Cross to Chilean Lake District—different culture, landscapes, cuisine. Puerto Varas: German-influenced town on Lago Llanquihue, Osorno Volcano views, chocolate/kuchen shops, Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park (Petrohué Falls, Todos Los Santos Lake), sophisticated dining. Pucón: Adventure capital on Lago Villarrica, Villarrica Volcano climb (active, lava lake), hot springs, rafting. Benefits: Chile usually cheaper than Argentina; excellent national parks (Huerquehue, Villarrica); unique culture; gateway to Chiloé Island further north. Create loop: Villa La Angostura → Chilean Lake District → Carretera Austral south → return Argentina via Futaleufú or continue to Torres del Paine. Or return via different border (Pucón → San Martín).
Suggested Duration: 5-10 days for Chilean Lake District highlights.
Planning Your Route:
Classic Northern Loop: Buenos Aires → fly Bariloche → Villa La Angostura (3-5 days) → Seven Lakes drive → San Martín (4-5 days) → return Bariloche → fly Buenos Aires. Perfect 10-14 days.
Extended Patagonia: Villa La Angostura → Bariloche (3 days) → El Bolsón (2 days) → Los Alerces National Park (5 days) → Esquel → Futaleufú Chile (rafting 3-5 days) → return or continue Carretera Austral.
Cross-Andes Adventure: Villa La Angostura → Chile via Cardenal Samoré → Puerto Varas (3 days) → Pucón (4 days) → return Argentina via Junín/Lanín → San Martín (4 days) → Seven Lakes → Villa La Angostura.
Quick Getaway: Fly Buenos Aires → Bariloche → bus Villa La Angostura (4-5 days) → return Bariloche → fly Buenos Aires. Perfect week escape.
Timing Tips:
- Villa La Angostura best March for autumn colors and fishing, or July-August for skiing
- Seven Lakes route summer only (Dec-March)—plan accordingly if connecting San Martín
- Combine with San Martín for complete northern Patagonia lake district experience
- March-April ideal for both towns—beautiful weather, fall colors, fewer crowds, good fishing
- Budget 4-5 days minimum for Villa La Angostura to experience fully
- Can easily spend 2 weeks exploring Villa La Angostura + San Martín + Bariloche triangle
- Avoid January-February if seeking solitude (busiest, most expensive)
- Fishing priority: Visit February-March when browns most aggressive