Santa Cruz Province, Argentina — Gateway to Glaciers
Overview
El Calafate is the tourist capital of Argentine Patagonia, positioned on the shores of turquoise Lago Argentino. While the town itself is a modern service hub with hotels, restaurants, and tour operators, the real draw lies 80 km west: Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the world’s most accessible and dynamic ice masses. Unlike most glaciers that are retreating, Perito Moreno maintains a stable equilibrium, regularly calving massive chunks of ice into the lake with thunderous roars. The town also serves as the jumping-off point for boat trips to Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers, and for ice-trekking adventures on the glacier surface itself.
Why Visit
Witness active glacier calving — From a series of elevated walkways, you can spend hours watching and hearing ice towers collapse into the Brazo Rico channel, creating waves and spray. The sound is unforgettable: cracks like rifle shots followed by rumbling impacts.
Walk on ancient ice — Guided “Big Ice” and “Mini Trekking” excursions take you onto the glacier wearing crampons, exploring blue crevasses, meltwater streams, and ice formations thousands of years old.
Explore multiple glaciers in one region — Los Glaciares National Park contains 47 major glaciers. Boat tours navigate through iceberg-filled waters to reach the towering faces of Upsala (the largest) and Spegazzini glaciers, both over 100 meters high.
Experience Patagonian estancia culture — Stay at working sheep ranches like Estancia Cristina or Nibepo Aike, where you can ride horses across the steppe, share asados with gauchos, and learn about frontier life.
Use as a base for diverse excursions — El Calafate connects easily to El Chaltén (3 hrs), Torres del Paine (5 hrs), and even multi-day ice cap expeditions for adventurous travelers.
Getting There
By Air: El Calafate Airport (FTE) receives daily flights from Buenos Aires (3 hrs), plus seasonal connections from Ushuaia, Bariloche, and Trelew. Book early for summer season.
By Bus: Long-distance buses connect to Río Gallegos (4 hrs), El Chaltén (3 hrs), Puerto Natales, Chile (5-6 hrs), and Buenos Aires (36+ hrs).
By Car: Route 40 runs north-south through El Calafate. The drive from El Chaltén is spectacular, with Fitz Roy visible in mirrors as you leave. Rental cars readily available.
Top Experiences
Perito Moreno Glacier Walkways — The extensive network of metal catwalks offers viewing angles from lake level to high panoramic viewpoints. Arrive early morning or late afternoon for best light and fewer tour groups. The walkways are wheelchair accessible. Include time for the cafeteria viewpoint and forest trails.
Ice Trekking on Perito Moreno — Two options: “Mini Trekking” (1.5 hrs on ice, moderate difficulty, ages 18-50) explores the southern edge with crampon walking through ice formations. “Big Ice” (3-4 hrs on ice, challenging, ages 18-45) ventures deep into the glacier with ice caves, seracs, and crevasse crossings.
All Glaciers Boat Tour — Full-day navigation through Lago Argentino’s north arm visiting Upsala, Spegazzini, and Seco glaciers. The boat weaves through massive icebergs, some the size of houses, in electric blue and white. Spegazzini’s 135-meter face is the highlight. Includes gourmet lunch onboard.
Estancia Cristina 4×4 Experience — Journey by boat across Lago Argentino to this remote historic ranch, then take a 4×4 ride into the mountains for panoramic views of the Upsala Glacier and surrounding peaks. The estancia museum tells the story of early settlers. Options for hiking or fossil viewpoints.
Glaciarium Ice Museum — Modern interactive museum explaining glacier formation, climate change, and Patagonian ice field science. The Ice Bar lets you sip whiskey in a room carved entirely from glacial ice (warm parkas provided). Particularly valuable on cloudy days or for understanding what you’re seeing in the field.
Laguna Nimez Nature Reserve — Right at the edge of town, this wetland boardwalk offers easy birdwatching for flamingos, black-necked swans, and upland geese against a backdrop of the Andes. Perfect for sunrise or a rest day.
Where to Stay
Budget: América del Sur Hostel (social atmosphere, helpful staff), Kalenshen Hostel (quiet, good kitchen), I Keu Ken Hostel (central location).
Mid-Range: Imago Hotel (stylish boutique, excellent breakfast), Hotel Schilling (traditional comfort), Xelena Hotel & Suites (modern amenities, lake views).
Luxury: Eolo Patagonia’s Spirit (iconic estancia lodge 30 km from town, all-inclusive), Los Sauces Casa Patagónica (boutique design hotel, personalized service), Design Suites Calafate (contemporary architecture, spa).
Estancias: Estancia Cristina (remote historic ranch, boat access), Nibepo Aike (working ranch experience, 7 km from town), Estancia 25 de Mayo (traditional gaucho hospitality).
Best Time to Visit
December-February (Summer): Peak season with 16-hour days, warmest temps (10-20°C), but strong winds and crowds. Glaciers calve most frequently. Must book everything 6+ months ahead.
March-April (Autumn): Ideal conditions — fewer tourists, calmer winds, stunning golden light on glaciers, similar calving activity. Prices drop 20-30%.
October-November (Spring): Good weather returns, wildflowers appear, baby lambs at estancias. Shoulder season pricing with summer-like conditions by late November.
June-September (Winter): Very quiet, snow-capped landscapes, budget prices, but shorter days (9 hours light) and some tours don’t operate. Ice bar particularly appealing.
3-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Town Orientation
- Arrive in El Calafate, check into accommodation
- Walk along Avenida del Libertador (main street) and lakefront
- Visit Laguna Nimez Reserve for sunset birdwatching (2 hrs)
- Dinner at La Zaina or Isabel Cocina al Disco
- Early sleep for tomorrow’s glacier visit
Day 2: Perito Moreno Glacier Full Day
- Depart 8 AM for Perito Moreno (80 km, 1.5 hrs drive)
- Walk all the glacier viewpoint circuits (2-3 hrs)
- Lunch at park cafeteria or packed lunch
- Optional: Mini Trekking on glacier (add 3 hrs) OR more walkway time
- Return to El Calafate by 6 PM
- Evening at Glaciarium Ice Museum + Ice Bar
Day 3: Estancia Experience & Departure
- Half-day tour to Estancia Nibepo Aike or 25 de Mayo
- Traditional asado lunch with gauchos
- Horseback riding or short hike
- Return to town for departure, or evening at leisure
- Try craft beer at Chopen cervecería
5-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Acclimatization
- Morning/afternoon arrival
- Settle into accommodation
- Explore town center, visit artisan market
- Laguna Nimez sunset walk
- Dinner at La Tablita (Patagonian lamb)
Day 2: Perito Moreno Glacier Walkways
- Early start to beat tour buses (arrive by 9 AM)
- Spend 3-4 hours exploring all viewpoint levels
- Watch for calving events (bring binoculars)
- Picnic lunch or cafeteria
- Return via scenic viewpoints on Route 11
- Evening free for rest and downtown dining
Day 3: Ice Trekking + Glacier Museum
- Big Ice or Mini Trekking experience (full day)
- Experience includes boat crossing, forest hike, crampon orientation, and ice exploration
- Return exhausted but exhilarated
- Late afternoon/evening at Glaciarium Museum
Day 4: All Glaciers Boat Tour
- Full-day Upsala-Spegazzini navigation
- Early departure from private port
- Navigate through iceberg alley
- Witness 135-meter Spegazzini face
- Gourmet lunch onboard
- Return by evening, rest and relax
Day 5: Estancia Day Trip
- Morning: Estancia Cristina by boat (3.5 hrs total sailing)
- 4×4 excursion to Upsala viewpoint or fossil canyon hike
- Traditional estancia lunch
- Museum visit and ranch exploration
- Return to El Calafate, evening departure or overnight
7-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival & Orientation
- Arrive and settle in
- Town walking tour
- Laguna Nimez Reserve at sunset
- Welcome dinner downtown
Day 2: Perito Moreno Classic
- Full day at Perito Moreno walkways
- Take your time, bring camera gear
- Multiple viewing angles
- Optional afternoon safari through Patagonian steppe
Day 3: On-Ice Adventure
- Big Ice trekking (full day)
- Deep glacier exploration with crampons
- Ice caves, crevasses, and meltwater streams
- Evening: Glaciarium Museum + Ice Bar
Day 4: All Glaciers Boat Expedition
- Ríos de Hielo boat tour to Upsala & Spegazzini
- Full-day navigation with gourmet lunch
- Iceberg photography opportunities
- Return for evening free time
Day 5: Estancia Cristina Adventure
- Boat journey across Lago Argentino
- Choose: 4×4 mountain excursion or fossil canyon hike
- Traditional asado lunch
- Explore historic homestead
- Return by evening boat
Day 6: Day Trip to El Chaltén
- Early bus to El Chaltén (3 hrs)
- Day hike to Laguna Torre or shorter trails
- Lunch in mountain village
- Browse outdoor shops and breweries
- Return to El Calafate by evening
- Farewell dinner at Isabel
Day 7: Relaxation & Departure
- Leisure morning
- Optional: kayaking on Lago Argentino or horseback riding
- Visit artisan market for souvenirs
- Afternoon/evening departure
- Or extend to Torres del Paine or other destinations
🎿 Adventure Activities
Beyond glacier viewing, El Calafate offers diverse adventure activities for active travelers:
Ice Trekking on Perito Moreno
The signature adventure experience:
- Mini Trekking: 1.5 hours on ice, moderate difficulty (ages 18-50). Walk across the glacier’s southern edge with crampons, exploring ice formations, small crevasses, and meltwater streams.
- Big Ice: 3-4 hours on ice, challenging (ages 18-45). Deep glacier exploration including blue ice caves, large seracs, technical sections, and dramatic crevasse crossings.
- Both include boat crossing, forest hike, safety briefing, and all equipment
- Book with Hielo & Aventura or Solo Patagonia
- Requires moderate-to-good fitness
4×4 Excursions
Access remote areas of Los Glaciares National Park:
- Estancia Cristina 4×4: Boat to remote ranch, then off-road to Upsala Glacier viewpoints or fossil-rich canyons
- High Mountain 4×4: Drive to 1,000m+ elevation for panoramic ice field views
- Fossil Safari: Explore ancient marine fossils in the Andes foothills
- Half-day or full-day options
- Combines adventure with spectacular scenery
Horseback Riding at Estancias
Experience gaucho culture on working ranches:
- Half-day rides through Patagonian steppe with Andes backdrop
- Full-day excursions to hidden lakes and viewpoints
- Multi-day pack trips into backcountry (for experienced riders)
- Traditional asado lunches often included
- Operators: Estancia Nibepo Aike, Estancia 25 de Mayo, Estancia Cristina
Kayaking on Lago Argentino
Paddle the turquoise glacial lake:
- Half-day tours exploring protected bays near El Calafate
- Full-day expeditions toward glacier fronts
- Multi-day camping trips for experienced paddlers
- Equipment and guides provided
- Season: October-April
- Operators: Mil Outdoor, Patagonia Adventure Explorer
Mountain Biking
Explore by pedal power:
- Laguna Nimez circuit (easy, 10 km, wildlife viewing)
- Road to Perito Moreno (challenging, 80 km one-way, elevation gain)
- Bahía Redonda loop (moderate, 25 km, lake views)
- Estancia trails (various difficulties)
- Bike rentals available in town
- Guided tours include support vehicles
Rock Climbing
Scale Patagonian rock faces:
- Sport climbing at crags near town (bolted routes)
- Traditional climbing on granite formations
- Via ferrata routes for non-climbers
- Climbing courses from beginner to advanced
- Equipment rental and guides available
- Best season: November-March
Boat Tours Beyond Perito Moreno
Navigate to less-visited glaciers:
- Ríos de Hielo (Ice Rivers): Full-day tour visiting Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers. Navigate through iceberg alley, witness 135m glacier walls.
- Upsala Glacier Express: Faster boat to largest glacier in park
- Spegazzini Glacier Premium: Focus on the tallest glacier wall
- All include gourmet meals and expert guides
- Book with Cruceros Marpatag or Solo Patagonia
Stand-Up Paddleboarding
Peaceful way to explore the lake:
- SUP lessons and rentals at Bahía Redonda
- Calm waters perfect for beginners
- Glacier views from your board
- Sunset SUP sessions popular
- Season: December-March
Fly Fishing
Trophy trout in pristine waters:
- Río Santa Cruz: World-class fishing downstream from Lago Argentino
- Estancia streams: Private access to productive waters
- Lake fishing: Trolling for large browns and rainbows
- Guided full-day or half-day trips
- Equipment provided or bring your own
- Season: November-April
- Operators: Estancia Cristina, El Calafate Fishing
Scenic Flights
Aerial perspectives of ice fields:
- Ice Cap overflights: 1-hour flights over Southern Patagonian Ice Field
- Glacier circuits: Fly over Perito Moreno, Upsala, and surrounding peaks
- Custom routes: Design your own aerial tour
- Small planes (Cessna) from El Calafate Airport
- Weather-dependent—book flexible dates
- Expensive but unforgettable
Pro Tips:
- Ice trekking books up fast—reserve 2-4 weeks ahead in high season
- Many activities weather-dependent; build flexibility into schedule
- Combine activities: morning glacier walk, afternoon estancia visit
- Operators provide transportation from El Calafate accommodations
➡️ Where to Go Next
After exploring El Calafate’s glaciers, these three destinations offer logical next stops:
1. El Chaltén — Trekking Capital of Argentina
Distance: 220 km (3 hours)
Transport Options:
- Bus: Daily departures with Caltur, Chaltén Travel, and Taqsa. Morning buses (usually 8-9 AM) and afternoon options (1-2 PM). Journey takes 3-3.5 hours on paved roads. Cost: ~$20-30 USD one-way. Book at bus terminal or online 1-2 days ahead (high season).
- Rental Car: Scenic drive north on Route 40. Stop at viewpoints where Fitz Roy massif first appears on horizon—jaw-dropping moment. Self-drive allows flexibility for photo stops and side trips to Lago del Desierto.
- Private Transfer: Shared or private shuttles available. More expensive (~$40-60 per person) but convenient for groups or those with lots of gear.
Why Go: Shift from glacier viewing to active mountain trekking. El Chaltén offers world-class day hikes starting right from town—no vehicles or guides needed. Hike to Laguna de los Tres for iconic Fitz Roy sunrise views, trek to Cerro Torre beneath the famous spire, or summit Loma del Pliegue Tumbado for 360° panoramas. The mountain village atmosphere is relaxed and friendly, with excellent breweries, bakeries, and hostels full of hikers sharing trail stories. Perfect complement to El Calafate’s glacier focus.
Suggested Duration: 4-7 days. Weather can close trails, so buffer days are essential. Most visitors do 2-3 major day hikes plus rest days.
2. Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
Distance: 280 km to Puerto Natales (5-6 hours including border)
Transport Options:
- Bus: Direct buses El Calafate to Puerto Natales run daily. Journey includes Argentine exit at Cancha Carrera border, then Chilean entry—straightforward process. Bring passport; customs forms provided on bus. Cost: ~$30-50 USD. Companies: Cootra, Bus Sur, Turismo Zaahj. High season: book 3-5 days ahead.
- Rental Car: Possible if rental company allows Chile entry (not all do). One-way drop fees apply. Border crossing simple but adds 1-2 hours. Benefits: flexibility to stop at viewpoints, explore Chilean side of Lago Argentino.
- Tour Packages: Many operators offer El Calafate-Torres del Paine packages including transport, park tours, and W Trek logistics.
Why Go: Experience Chile’s crown jewel and one of the world’s most spectacular national parks. Torres del Paine offers the famous W Trek (4-5 days), stunning Cuernos peaks reflecting in Lago Pehoé, massive Grey Glacier, and diverse wildlife including pumas, guanacos, and condors. The park complements El Calafate perfectly—similar dramatic landscapes but different geology, ecosystems, and trekking culture. Puerto Natales (gateway town) sits on the stunning Última Esperanza fjord with excellent restaurants, gear shops, and relaxed atmosphere.
Suggested Duration: 5-10 days. Minimum 2 days in Puerto Natales (arrival and W Trek prep), 4-5 days for W Trek, 1-2 days recovery and departure. Extended stays can add O Circuit (7-9 days) or day hikes from town.
3. Ushuaia — The End of the World
Distance: 650 km (8-10 hours by bus, or fly 1.5 hours)
Transport Options:
- Direct Bus: Long-distance buses El Calafate to Ushuaia run 2-3x weekly. Journey crosses vast Patagonian steppe, passes through Río Gallegos, enters Tierra del Fuego via ferry (Primera Angostura), continues through Chilean territory (simple border), then Argentine Tierra del Fuego to Ushuaia. Total: 10-12 hours including border stops. Cost: ~$60-80 USD. Companies: Marga, Taqsa. Scenic but long.
- Fly: Most convenient option. Direct flights El Calafate (FTE) to Ushuaia (USH) operate 3-4x weekly (more frequent in high season). Flight time: 1.5 hours. Cost: $150-300 USD depending on season and booking time. Airlines: Aerolíneas Argentinas, FlyBondi. Book ahead for best prices.
- Bus + Fly Combo: Bus to Río Gallegos (4 hrs, ~$25), then fly Río Gallegos to Ushuaia (1 hr). Sometimes cheaper than direct flight. Requires coordination and possible overnight in Río Gallegos.
Why Go: Continue south to the absolute end of South America. Ushuaia offers completely different experiences from El Calafate: Beagle Channel boat tours with penguins, sea lions, and Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse; Tierra del Fuego National Park’s coastal trails to Pan-American Highway’s terminus; the End of the World Train; world-class king crab dining; and the mystique of the planet’s southernmost city. Also departure point for Antarctica cruises (Nov-March). The shift from glacial mountains to maritime adventures provides excellent variety. In winter, Ushuaia offers skiing, dog sledding, and aurora australis viewing—transformative experience.
Suggested Duration: 4-7 days. Core experiences take 3 days, but the remoteness and unique atmosphere warrant longer stays. Add extra days for penguin colonies, Martial Glacier hikes, and lakes excursions.
Planning Your Route:
Classic Northern Loop: El Calafate → El Chaltén → back to El Calafate → fly to Buenos Aires or other destinations
Chilean Connection: El Calafate → Torres del Paine (Puerto Natales) → Punta Arenas → fly to Santiago or return to Argentina
Far South Circuit: El Calafate → Ushuaia (fly) → explore Tierra del Fuego → return or continue north along Atlantic coast
Ultimate Patagonia: El Calafate → El Chaltén → Torres del Paine → Punta Arenas → Ushuaia (fly) → Buenos Aires
Timing Tips:
- Most travelers spend 3-5 days in El Calafate
- Weather is unpredictable—build buffer days
- December-February is peak season: book everything months ahead
- March-April offers better prices, fewer crowds, stunning autumn colors
- Torres del Paine W Trek requires 6-12 month advance booking (high season)
- Ushuaia complements El Calafate well (both glacier-focused, in Argentina)
- Border crossings to Chile are straightforward but add 1-2 hours
